Two-Tone Crochet Crossbody Sling Free Pattern
Introduction
This two-tone crossbody sling is the perfect next-step project for anyone who has mastered single crochet and wants to make something they will actually wear. It is built from one long, narrow rectangle that folds up into a slouchy little pouch, topped with a rust flap that pops against the forest green body. The dense single crochet fabric feels sturdy and slightly ribbed in the hand, soft enough to drape but firm enough to hold its shape. With an adjustable strap threaded through two simple loops, it fits kids and adults alike, and it looks great thrown over a hoodie or a summer tee.
Materials Needed
- Yarn: Worsted weight (4) acrylic or cotton blend. Color A (forest green): 220 yards. Color B (rust): 110 yards.
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook.
- Notions: Tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends, scissors, and a stitch marker (optional, for marking the fold line).
- Finished size: Pouch 9 inches wide x 10 inches tall (folded); strap 1.5 inches wide x 48 inches long (adjustable).
Abbreviations
- ch — chain: make a loop of yarn and pull it through the loop on your hook.
- sc — single crochet: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.
- sl st — slip stitch: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook.
- st(s) — stitch(es).
- Rnd — round: a row worked in a circle.
Gauge
16 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in single crochet. To check, crochet a small swatch in single crochet and measure a 4-inch section; if you have more stitches than 16, go up a hook size, and if you have fewer, go down.
Tips Before You Start
- Keep your single crochet tension even and slightly firm — a dense fabric keeps the pouch from stretching out of shape when it holds your phone and keys.
- Count your stitches at the end of every row. The rectangle must stay 36 stitches wide so the fold and side seams line up neatly.
- Place a stitch marker at row 30 before you change colors; this marks the fold line and the point where your side seams stop.
- When you change from A to B, work the last stitch of Row 30 with B so the color change is clean and the flap edge looks tidy.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Pouch (worked flat as one rectangle, then folded)
With A, ch 37.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (36 sc).
Rows 2-30: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (36 sc). Change to B.
Rows 31-40: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (36 sc). Fasten off.
Folding the Rectangle
Bring the bottom edge up to row 30 (the fold line is at row 30). The B section (rows 31-40) forms the flap that hangs over the front.
Side Seams
With A, whipstitch the sides from the bottom edge up to row 30 on both sides. Leave the rust flap unseamed.
Flap Edging
With B, sc evenly around the three free edges of the flap to neaten them. Join with sl st and fasten off.
Strap (make 1)
With A, ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (5 sc).
Rows 2-192: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (5 sc). Fasten off. (Strap measures approx 48 inches long.)
Strap Loops (make 2)
With A, ch 8, join with sl st to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around (8 sc). Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Assembly and Finishing
Attach one strap loop to each top corner of the pouch at the row 30 fold line, using A and a few secure stitches through the loop and the fabric. Thread the strap through the loops and adjust it to your desired length, then knot the strap ends to secure them. Weave in all ends on the wrong side, working them through several stitches so they do not work loose. Block lightly by misting the pouch and strap with water and shaping them flat to dry; this evens out the single crochet texture and helps the flap lie smoothly.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Swap the rust flap for mustard, cream, or black to create a completely different look with the same green body.
- Add a simple button and a crochet chain loop under the flap for a little extra security on the go.
- Make the strap longer for a true crossbody fit, or shorter for a shoulder bag — just add or remove rows in multiples that keep the 5-stitch width.