Rustic Lilac Leaf Knit Backpack Free Pattern

Introduction

The Rustic Lilac Leaf Knit Backpack is a tall, soft sack of a bag with a farmhouse soul. Worked in linen stitch from a linen-cotton blend, it has a beautiful woven texture that looks far more complicated than it is, and a monochrome lilac palette that feels calm and handmade. Three flat lilac leaves layered on the front give it a quiet botanical detail, while the knitted I-cord drawstring cinches the top closed. It is a satisfying project for a knitter who is comfortable working in the round and ready to try a slipped-stitch texture, and the finished bag is light, sturdy, and lovely to carry.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight linen blend (50% linen, 50% cotton), approx. 200 yd (183 m) per 100 g skein. 2 skeins in Lilac (A), 1 skein in Pale Lilac (B) for leaves and drawstring; approx. 350 yd (320 m) total.
• Needles: 4.0 mm (US 6) circular needle, 24" (60 cm) cable, and a set of 4 double-pointed needles in the same size; or size to obtain gauge.
• Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors, blocking mats and pins.
• Finished size: Approx. 10" (25 cm) circumference at base, 12" (30 cm) tall, 9" (23 cm) circumference at top (drawstring cinched).

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on
• st(s): stitch(es)
• k: knit
• p: purl
• sl1 wyif: slip one stitch purlwise with the yarn held in front of the work
• yo: yarn over (wrap the yarn around the needle to make a new stitch)
• k2tog: knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
• ssk: slip, slip, knit the two slipped stitches together (a left-leaning decrease)
• p3tog: purl three stitches together
• m1: make one (lift the bar between stitches and knit it through the back loop)
• pm: place marker
• BO: bind off
• WS: wrong side
• Rnd/R: round/row

Gauge

20 sts and 36 rows = 4" (10 cm) in linen stitch, blocked. Knit a swatch in the round in linen stitch, block it, and count stitches and rows over 4" (10 cm) before beginning.

Tips Before You Start

• Linen stitch is worked over an even number of stitches in the round: every round alternates knit and slipped stitches, and each round is offset by one stitch from the one before. Keep your slipped stitches loose so the fabric stays soft and even.
• Always carry the working yarn in front for the slipped stitches; if it creeps to the back, the texture flattens out.
• Linen-cotton yarn has little stretch, so cast on and bind off loosely, and check the drawstring opening fits comfortably over the eyelet round.
• Work the three leaves first and block them flat, so you can arrange the layered placement before sewing anything to the bag.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Base (Yarn A)

CO: Cast on 60 sts using Judy's Magic Cast On or a provisional cast on. Join to work in the round, pm.

R1: knit (60 sts).

R2: [k1, sl1 wyif] around (60 sts).

R3: [sl1 wyif, k1] around (60 sts).

R4-27: Repeat R2-3 (12 times), until the piece measures 1.5" (4 cm) from the cast on, ending after an R3 (60 sts).

Body (Yarn A)

Change to linen stitch in the round.

R1: [k1, sl1 wyif] around (60 sts).

R2: [sl1 wyif, k1] around (60 sts).

R3-90: Repeat R1-2 (44 times), until the body measures 10" (25 cm) from the base, ending after an R2 (60 sts).

Drawstring Eyelet Round (Yarn A)

Eyelet round: [k1, yo, k2tog, sl1 wyif] around (60 sts).

Next round: [k1, sl1 wyif] around (60 sts).

Following rounds: Continue in linen stitch (alternating [k1, sl1 wyif] and [sl1 wyif, k1] rounds) for 1" (2.5 cm), ending after a [sl1 wyif, k1] round (60 sts).

Bind off: Bind off loosely in pattern.

Drawstring (Yarn B)

CO: Cast on 3 sts.

I-cord: Work I-cord for 30" (76 cm).

BO: Bind off all 3 sts.

Leaves (Yarn B) — Make 3

CO: Cast on 7 sts.

R1 (WS): purl (7 sts).

R2: k1, m1, k2, m1, k1, m1, k2, m1, k1 (11 sts).

R3: purl (11 sts).

R4: k1, m1, k4, m1, k1, m1, k4, m1, k1 (15 sts).

R5: purl (15 sts).

R6: k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1 (11 sts).

R7: purl (11 sts).

R8: k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 (7 sts).

R9: purl (7 sts).

R10: k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 (5 sts).

R11: purl (5 sts).

R12: ssk, k1, k2tog (3 sts).

R13: p3tog (1 st). Fasten off.

Assembly and Finishing

Block all pieces: steam or wet-block the backpack body to the finished measurements, and pin the three leaves flat to open up their shape. Once dry, sew the leaves to the front of the backpack in a layered stack: place the bottom leaf centered 3" (7.5 cm) from the base, the middle leaf overlapping the bottom by 1" (2.5 cm) and offset 1" (2.5 cm) to the right, and the top leaf overlapping the middle by 1" (2.5 cm) and offset 1" (2.5 cm) to the left. Use duplicate stitch to secure the leaf stems. Thread the drawstring through the eyelet round and tie the ends. Weave in all ends on the wrong side, and give the finished bag a final light block.

Pro Tips and Variations

• For a firmer base that holds its shape, work the base in a slightly tighter gauge or add a circle of stiff interfacing inside before closing the bottom.
• Swap the leaf placement for a scattered vine of five smaller leaves, or work the leaves in a contrasting sage green for a different farmhouse look.
• Add a simple twisted-cord or braided strap in Yarn A to convert the sack into a shoulder bag, attaching it at the sides just below the eyelet round.